Writer: Tiffany Adams Photographer: Rett Peek
Chef Rafael Rios and his family diversify Northwest Arkansas’s Mexican food offerings, while remaining true to their heritage
Walk into most any Mexican restaurant and you likely have an order in mind before you’re handed a menu. Staples like quesadillas, nachos, and taco salads are almost certain to make their way to tables around the establishment. Walk into Yeyo’s El Alma De Mexico, and the flair is a little different. Yes, you’ll see salsas, enchiladas, and even the ever-popular taco at the 8th Street Market location in Bentonville, but somehow they feel more like homemade dishes prepared just for you.
It’s not a fluke; it’s at the heart of chef Rafael Rios’s mission, one that he shares with his extended family and that has expanded across the footprint of Northwest Arkansas. From his early days in “The Blue Demon” food truck, to the Bentonville restaurant, and on to a mezcaleria in Rogers, connection with people through the authentic flavors and processes of the past have always been at the forefront. In a sense, Rafael and his family are culinary preservationists, sharing their recipes and their farm-produced ingredients with current generations.
For him, the genesis of the experience goes back to his childhood. Born in California, his parents were seasonal farm workers, who traveled back and forth to Mexico. From the time he was a baby until his teens, he lived in Michoacán, Mexico, where fresh-made tortillas and labor-intensive recipes seemed to embed themselves in his senses. He turned these memories into a passion, cooking for others through 15 years of service in the U.S. Army and the eventual path to where he is today—a five-time James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef in the South. “People always complimented my food. They always thought I was a great chef or a great cook, and they always said, You should open up a restaurant,” he says. Leaving the service before the age of 40, he and his brother came to Northwest Arkansas for a visit, and two years later his entire family—his parents and seven siblings—were living here, sharing life and making these time-honored dishes. “We’re part of the Mexican community that enjoys farming. So we came here to have chickens, eggs, you know, sustain ourselves,” he adds.
These ingredients, which were grown on the Rios Family Farm, were the starting point for his restaurants. After planting around eight acres of tomatoes, squash, peppers, root vegetables, and the like, a bumper crop led to them selling the produce at the Rogers Farmers Market and later at the market in Bentonville. “It was groundbreaking…a really historical point in our lives,” Rafael says of the experience that opened doors for their produce to be used in area restaurants like The Hive at 21C and Oven & Tap. Then, they took it one step further, creating a true farm-to-table Mexican food truck where these ingredients were transformed into their own flavorful dishes.
“I like to think of myself as a guardian of recipes or guardian of processes,” Rafael says. “At a time when there are a lot of trends to do minimalistic, micro dishes, I want to go back in time. For example, I think of this one place in Tijuana where I had my first fish tacos,” he says. “I want to experience that again, so that’s how I make my food.”
As it turns out, his customers wanted to go on the historic journey as well. The food truck spawned a brick-and-mortar restaurant and even more involvement from the family. Today, 18 of the family members work in the restaurants while four operate the farm. “We all get together on Sundays, and just hang out, and argue, and fight, and stuff. All the things that families do. We’re not different that way,” he says.
“We have a large sense of family foundation, that we need to preserve—to be together, to get to know our cousins, and who is our family down the road. This is very much instilled in Mexican families, so we want to make sure that people truly understand what that really means,” Rafael says. To this point, it’s not just about the heritage that is served on plates. At Yeyo’s El Alma De Mexico, a series of heart sculptures hang along the back wall representing each of his siblings and his mom and dad. “If you come to our restaurant, there are elements that tell you exactly how much heart goes into doing everything that we do here,” he says. “I want every one of my customers to feel like this is the place they can belong.”
The spirit seems to be contagious. Beyond the food truck and the 8th Street Market location, it carries over to the bar at the Yeyo’s Mezcaleria y Taqueria in downtown Rogers, Arkansas’s first mezcal sanctuary. “Mezcal is the grandfather of tequila. It existed many, many years before tequila did,” Rafael explains. Harvested from the hearts of agave plants, it is not one of the top-selling spirits in the world. But, again, that’s not the only motivation behind sharing it with Northwest Arkansas. “My grandpa used to harvest the agave, and I remember it like moonshiners,” Rafael says. “It’s dying things that we want to preserve and for people to know about.”
Visit yeyosnwa.com for locations, hours, and menus.
“Anytime you eat something great, beautiful, and tasty, that is made just for you, it is good for your soul.”
–Chef Rafael Rios
Recipe: Salsa Cruda
Yields 2 quarts
Chef Rafael recommends Salsa Cruda, or raw tomato salsa, as a must for summer grilling season. “It’s fresh, simple to prepare, and packed with vibrant flavor—perfect for dipping with tortilla chips, topping tacos, or serving alongside grilled meats,” he notes. Spend a few minutes whipping up a batch you can enjoy for days—if you don’t eat it all at once!
SHOP
½ pound ripe Roma tomatoes, chopped
½ pound ripe heirloom tomatoes, chopped
1 small white onion, roughly chopped
3 jalapeños with seeds, roughly chopped
1 large garlic clove, roughly chopped
1 bunch cilantro (with leaves and stems), roughly chopped
1 ounce kosher salt
2 teaspoons toasted, ground cumin
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
PREPARE
Place all ingredients in a large bowl and toss together. Transfer the mixture to a blender, filling halfway. Pulse four to five times until the salsa is combined but still slightly chunky. Repeat with the remaining mixture until all ingredients are blended. Taste and adjust salt, if needed. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to three days.
